Is dog dental hygiene as important as human dental hygiene?

Let’s start with you. What happens if you don’t brush your teeth? Plaque starts to build around the gum line and in between the grooves of your teeth and a funky smell begins to follow your words out of your mouth.

Brush at least twice a day with dentist-recommended toothpaste and we come close to eliminating most of the common human dental problems.

So, why don’t our dogs get the same consideration? We complain that they are the family member with the un-kissable breath but often do nothing to help them combat the problem.

Dog Dental Hygiene Preventive Care

As with all health and wellness related
issues, good dog teeth care begins with
solid preventive care:

“Daily brushing? My dog won’t let me hold her face still for 3 seconds to clean out her eyes, let alone for the amount of time it would take to brush her teeth!”

This was my reaction the first time I heard this advice. After much trial and error, this technique seems to be the most effective:

Now for the actual steps:

1. At first, only briefly hold and look into your dog’s mouth – but do it often.

      2.  Once comfortable with allowing you to look, start to massage the gums a little. Move in gentle circles around the outside of the   gums and teeth. Do this quickly at first,
and spend a little more time with each attempt.

       3.  Now it’s time to introduce a brush. Use the same technique, and add a dab of dog toothpaste.

       4. BE PATIENT – it takes some dogs over a month to get used to it. How long would it take YOU to get used to someone grabbing your face and putting something into your mouth?

Ultimately you want your dog to get excited when the tooth brush comes out. Believe it or not, this can eventually be fun for them! So remember:

• Be gentle!
• Go at your dog’s own pace.
• Reward your dogs with a treat, trip outside, game of fetch or whatever they like most.

Crate Training a Puppy or Dog with puppy package from pet lovers palace

What to do when Puppy is screaming and whining in the crate.
First make sure your puppy does not have to urinate or defecate and that she is not thirsty or excessively hungry. If in doubt, take him to his designated toilet area before you begin.

Make yourself comfortable because in the beginning this can be a time consuming process, but each repetition brings results faster and faster until the exercise no longer needs to be done. If done properly, it should take no longer than a week for your puppy to feel secure in his crate and no longer howl and whine.

This process will not work if you do not provide your puppy with regularly scheduled exercise and play. If your puppy has excessive, pent up energy because you haven’t provided an outlet for that energy, then this exercise will be futile.

Having previously performed the Chill exercise with your puppy will make this training process infinitely easier. See the video on how to teach your puppy to Chill.

The basic idea is to comfort and sooth your puppy into falling asleep and then once asleep, placing her back into her crate. Sometimes the puppy will stir a bit when you move her from your lap to the crate, but simply stroke and calm her inside the crate before shutting the door. Sometimes, just reaching through the crate with your fingers and gently stroking the puppy will be enough. If the whining continues immediately, then repeat the process and wait until the puppy is more soundly asleep before placing her back into the crate.

Repeat this process until you succeed or each subsequent training session will take longer and longer. I had to do this several times the first night and then once a night for a few nights. After that I only needed to do it for a few minutes before bedtime and occasionally if the puppy woke up in the middle of the night. Each night she felt more secure, she slept longer and longer until she would sleep the entire night through.

However I found that I had to repeat the training when I crated her during the day for naptime. But the process is exactly the same.

The Doggie Dooley Pet Waste Disposal System from pet lovers palace works like a miniature septic tank, utilizing natural bacteria and enzyme cultures to reduce dog waste to a ground absorbed liquid.

 Simply shovel stools into the system, occasionally add water and the Digester Powder. Neat, clean, and convenient. An environmentally friendly way to dispose of pet waste! Each unit comes with a starter 6 month supply of Digester Powder. The Digester Powder is a non-toxic, harmless mixture designed especially for pet waste. The systems are harmless to pets, lawns, and shrubs. The Doggie Dooley is an excellent way to dispose of pet waste safely and control odors. Works well in all soil conditions except in areas with hard, non-draining clay soil.

Crate Training

 The Humane Society of the United States and Pet Lovers Palace

“Private room with a view. Ideal for traveling dogs or for those who just want a secure, quiet place to hang out at home.”

That’s how your dog might describe his crate. It’s his own personal den where he can find comfort and solitude while you know he’s safe and secure—and not shredding your house while you’re out running errands.

Crating philosophy

Crate training uses a dog’s natural instincts as a den animal. A wild dog’s den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger, and raise a family. The crate becomes your dog’s den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm.

• The primary use for a crate is housetraining. Dogs don’t like to soil their dens.
• The crate can limit access to the rest of the house while he learns other rules, like not to chew on furniture.
• Crates are a safe way to transport your dog in the car.

Crating caution!

A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated.

• Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.
• Don’t leave your dog in the crate too long.  A dog that’s crated day and night doesn’t get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious. You may have to change your schedule, hire a pet sitter, or take your dog to a doggie daycare facility to reduce the amount of time he must spend in his crate every day.
• Puppies under six months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long.  The same goes for adult dogs that are being housetrained.  Physically, they can hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to.
• Crate your dog only until you can trust him not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place he goes voluntarily.

Selecting a crate

Several types of crates are available:

• Plastic (often called “flight kennels”)
• Fabric on a collapsible, rigid frame
• Collapsible, metal pens

Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores or pet supply catalogs.

Your dog’s crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can’t eliminate at one end and retreat to the other. Your local animal shelter may rent out crates.  By renting, you can trade up to the appropriate size for your puppy until he’s reached his adult size, when you can invest in a permanent crate.

The crate training process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training:

• The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.
• Training should take place in a series of small steps. Don’t go too fast.

Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at his leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away.  If yours isn’t one of them:

• Bring him over to the crate, and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
• Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay; don’t force him to enter.
• Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feed your dog his meals in the crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.

• If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.
• If he remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating.
• If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, don’t let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.

Step 3: Lengthen the crating periods

After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home.

• Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.
• Give him a command to enter, such as “kennel.” Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.
• After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door.
• Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let him out of the crate.
• Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight.
• Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave

After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house.

• Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate.
• Vary at what point in your “getting ready to leave” routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
• Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly.

When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.

Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.

Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so they don’t associate the crate with social isolation.

Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Potential problems

Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you’ve followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.

If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t give in; if you do, you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won’t solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

Things you need to know about kennel training

2 Select a permanent location in your home with enough space for the kennel and is in a room full of activity so your pet can enjoy his own “special” place while still being part of the family. Also, place an old towel or blanket with your scent on it inside for bedding. These steps will help your pet become comfortable with his new surroundings.

 5 This training may take a few hours or days depending on your pet’s breed and temperament. Once he feels secure in the kennel with the door closed, the pup will eventually sit quietly and sleep in his “new” home.

6 NEVER punish your dog by forcing him into his kennel or reprimanding him while he is in it. This will undermine your pets sense of security in his kennel.

7 Always take your pet outside to potty BEFORE placing him in the kennel.

PetSafe Fence Is Safe And Humane

The PetSafe fence is safe and humane for all dogs or cats that weigh over 9 pounds, though it is predominantly used for dogs. The PetSafe fence is one of the best containment fences you can get. The reality is that an invisible PetSafe fence is very humane.

There are many different types of PetSafe Fences to suit different dogs and different containment areas. Because of all these variations, you may wonder which one is the most suitable for what it is you want to do, well we will help you through the PetSafe fence maze in this article. You can get an indoor and outdoor PetSafe fence, and you can get an outdoor fence which is either wireless or uses a wire. Your first option must be the simplest, and that is to choose whether you want an indoor PetSafe fence or an outdoor. If you want an indoor fence then you go for a wireless fence, if you want an outdoor then there are a number of items to take into consideration. There are three outdoor PetSafe Fence products; stubborn dog, deluxe and the standard model. It is one of the most powerful fences on the market. You can contain an area up to ten acres with this fence, all you need to do is buy more wire to extend it as the basic product only covers up to a third of an acre. This PetSafe fence can contain an area the same size as the stubborn fence but much less than the 25 acres for the deluxe model, hence the containment area is only 10 acres. You need to be careful because not all wireless fence products are safe.

You can get an indoor and outdoor PetSafe fence, and you can get an outdoor fence which is either wireless or uses a wire. If you want an indoor fence then you go for a wireless fence, if you want an outdoor then there are a number of items to take into consideration. The PetSafe wireless fence covers an area in diameter up to 180 feet. If you want simplicity and very fast setup then go for the wireless fence, if you need to cover a very large area, and you want a specific shaped boundary then you need the underground fence. PetSafe Wireless FenceYou need to be careful because not all wireless fence products are safe. PetSafe and Innotek have both developed a wireless fence which can be used indoors or outdoors. A wireless fence will ensure your dog is not able to jump over your fence or to dig under it. If you have the problem of your dog escaping from your back yard, an alternative to a wireless fence is the normal 6ft high panel fence, how much does that cost. Training your pet dog to turn a blind eye to things happening outside the wireless fence is one the things that makes this training so special. The other option to a wireless fence is the underground dog fence.

PetSafe and Innotek have both developed a wireless fence which can be used indoors or outdoors. There are three outdoor PetSafe Fence products; stubborn dog, deluxe and the standard model. Sometimes, the PetSafe product needs troubleshooting to resolve occasional problems with the collar or transmitter. Replace the batteries in the PetSafe collar. Trim the fur around the pet’s neck to increase the effectiveness of the collar’s static shock if your pet does not respond to the PetSafe product. If you get a PetSafe invisible dog fence then you will also get a comprehensive set of instructions. Innotek only makes one system and it is a general purpose one, where as PetSafe manufactures 3 types for 3 different applications. When it comes to the back yard, PetSafe manufactures an outdoor wireless fence, which Innotek have yet to do. The reality is that an invisible PetSafe fence is very humane. If a dog does escape it runs the risk of being run over if it gets out on the road and I have heard some people who get into a lot of hot water because their dogs escape and chase other pets or farm animals. When you study how a wireless or underground PetSafe fence works, you will understand how humane they are.

There are many different types of PetSafe Fences to suit different dogs and different containment areas. It is one of the most powerful fences on the market. The PetSafe fence is one of the best containment fences you can get. They hear things like shock collars and electric shock fences, which sound very painful. The good news is that these invisible dog fences are a piece of cake to get up and running. PetSafe produces a wide range of fences to suit the many different types of dog’s and your requirements. There are different fences for different applications. If you are looking for a dog fence you will be pleased to know that the modern dog fences are very simple to install.

The boundary area can be extended by adding additional transmitters and placing them at a strategic distance apart. If you want simplicity and very fast setup then go for the wireless fence, if you need to cover a very large area, and you want a specific shaped boundary then you need the underground fence. It covers boundary flag awareness, distraction phase and unleashed supervision. The system works with three parts: the transmitter, boundary wire, and dog collar. The transmitter with a fence sends radio signals to the boundary wire. If the dog is too close to the boundary of the fence, the collar will emit a beep. If the dog ignores the beep and keeps going toward the boundary, it will receive a mild electronic correction. Some electronic dog fence units have several levels of correction so correction levels will intensify as the dog gets closer to the boundary. If the boundary wire breaks, an alarm on the transmitter will sound to let you know. Play with your dog well away from the boundary and just have a bit of fun with him.

When multiple dogs are using a fence from Petsafe, they all must wear collars designed for that system so every dog receives appropriate correction.

The PetSafe fence is one of the best containment fences you can get. The reality is that an invisible PetSafe fence is very humane.

For non-asthmatic symptoms (sneezing and watery eyes), pet lovers can use non-systemic medications such as Lanacort, Nasacort, Nasal, and other nasal medications that will control symptoms. Claritin, Allegra and other treatments can work against allergy attacks. They work by gradually desensitizing a person’s immune system to the pet allergens. Allergy-causing proteins are injected under the person’s skin, triggering the body to produce antibodies (protective proteins) which block the pet allergen from causing a reaction. Treatment uses .antihistamines, such as chlortrimetron More severe cases are treated with systemic steroids, which can have drawbacks. It is hoped that as time passes, the immune system will become less reactive to the problem-causing allergens. If desensitization appears to help the cat, injections will continue for several years. The last sign of allergies in cats involves the digestive system, resulting in vomiting or diarrhea.
Although dander can irritate your skin, it can also get into your immune system as well, resulting in a variety of symptoms and almost immediate allergic reactions. 
If left untreated, cat allergies can make your cat miserable, and they can even have an effect on your cat’s immune system. Unfortunately, cat allergies are one of the most misunderstood conditions in the world of felines. Because it takes at least 8 weeks for all other food products to get out of the system, the cat must eat the special diet exclusively for 8-12 weeks. If positive response occurs, you will be instructed on how to proceed. You can’t really call it an illness, but more of a defense reflex of your immune system and body. Because allergens can be found in the cat’s saliva, urine and blood, cat allergies can happen very often. An allergic reaction is an immune system response . Allergy symptoms develop when these proteins are carried through the air and come in contact with the lining of the respiratory tract. They do not often die directly from FIV, but rather one of the diseases that they can get when their immune system is impaired. FIV appears to involve three stages acute (swollen lymph glands, fever, depression, bacterial infections), latent (apparent well being, can last months to years); and chronic (cat is susceptible to all kinds of other viruses, fungi, and bacteria). With the launch of the project, ALLERCA has implemented a web-based reservation system for those who want to be first to own and enjoy an ALLERCA hypoallergenic cat. This is an attempt to reprogram the cat’s immune system so it no longer over- reacts to flea bites. If successful, itching no longer occurs or is less intense when the cat is bitten. Chimeric proteins could be used to desensitise allergy sufferers by retraining their immune system. People with pet allergies have super sensitive immune systems that react to harmless proteins in the pet’s dander, saliva or urine. These proteins are called allergens. Cleaning your house and vacuuming will get rid of fleas in your house. And veterinarians can often prescribes drugs that kill fleas or break the flea’s life cycle. Pet allergies fall into three main categories: food allergy, an allergic reaction to an ingredient in a pet’s food; flea allergic dermatitis,

or “flea bite hypersensitivity”; and lastly, atop, an environmental allergy.
The cat allergy question has been asked before, and I do have the standard

itchy eyes, stuffed nose, sneezing, etc. However, I’d specifically like

suggestions regarding cat-induced asthma. Signs of allergies begin with

redness and itching of the face, feet, ears and rump areas. As the disease

progresses the itching can involve most or all of the body. Does getting

close to your furry family member result in itchy, watery eyes and sneezing?

Many cat owners are allergic to their pets, yet feel the benefits of life

with their furry companions outweighs the drawbacks.
In short, histamine is released into the body’s systems and causes swelling,

itching and redness. Antihistamines are taken by many people to counter such

allergic reactions. These allergic reactions usually include itchy eyes and

nose, sneezing, asthma and itchy skin rashes. Animals tend to experience skin

disorders rather than sneezing and watery eyes, and once exposed, they

usually becomes extremely itchy. You might notice the typical signs: licking

the feet, rubbing the face and frequent scratching.
If you’re allergic to an animal, you are probably allergic to other things as

well. By decreasing other irritants, you’ll reduce your overall symptoms. So

if you know that you or another family member is allergic to cats, getting

one, no matter what the breed, is not a good idea. Cat owners have also

claimed that certain other breeds of cats do not trigger their allergic

symptoms. Do you own a breed of cat that you consider to be hypoallergenic?

For example, do your allergy symptoms go away when you’re at work and away

from the kitty, only to start back up when you walk through the door at home?

Have someone babysit your kitty for a week and see if your allergy symptoms

lessen at home. But, I’ve always been allergic to them. For a person who has

a food allergy, it is not the food itself that is dangerous but the reactions

made by the body towards the food. There are no other ways to beat a food

allergy but to avoid foods related to the allergy itself.
The saliva that accumulates on their fur can dry and go become airborne,

causing allergic reactions when it’s inhaled. And cat dander is smaller and

stickier than dog dander, so it’s easy for it to accumulate on porous

surfaces. If the result of the test is positive, the instructions may advise

you to seek medical advice and work with health professionals to manage your

allergy or you can take action yourself to minimise exposure to the allergen

concerned.
Unfortunately, allergies are one of the main reasons people give for giving

up their pet. Most of these people do not realize that there are ways of

reducing or eliminating their allergy problems. Pet allergies are enough to

make pet lovers go nuts! Who can you turn to for relief from dog and cat

allergies? But some still want pets. Allerpet, a well-known brand of liquid

that reduces cat allergen in the air, can be applied to your cats’ coat and

is available from your local veterinarian. Alternatively, you can get a micro

fiber cloth and just damp rub down the cats’ coats to rid it of visible

dander. Get rid of carpets and as many nylon and synthetic fabric surfaces as

you can. Nylon and synthetic fabrics (in furniture and rugs) attract and hold

dust, dander, etc. Honest breeders will tell you that, and reputable ones won’

t sell a pet to people with allergies for fear that it will be returned

months later.
Many pet owners are struggling financially, and providing proper veterinary

care for their pets may be difficult. We know that they are already doing

there part to help there clients afford their pet’s care. The inconvenience

of using these products is arguably worth the many rewards of having a loyal

pet friend. There are many types of allergies, and yours may not be pet-

related. If you turn out to be allergic to cats, your allergist can design an

appropriate regimen of medications, alternative therapies, or allergy shots

to alleviate much of your suffering.
Jeffrey L. New
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4881-ABDF-7ABA78B50666}&G=471ABF5C-9DBE-4803-B122-08C528E917DE&P=1575&RID=469

Parrots are not easy to keep and the care of one is a very demanding and expensive, long-term commitment. Parrots are intelligent animals who depend on some degree of socialization and will not be good pets unless they are taught and patterned to be good pets and are more then just a set of beautiful feathers or smooth singing voice. They are sensitive and emotional creatures which require lots of physical and mental stimulation.
It is no longer legal to trade in endangered species, and the interests of parrots are being protected world-wide. The parrot is the most endangered birds in the world, with many species threatened with extinction. Thousands of parrots are brought into Europe and North America annually, both legally and illegally, and many do not survive the journey. In most countries the capture, export, and import of parrots are strictly regulated, but the laws are difficult to enforce. They aren’t like hamsters, with a lifespan of one or two years, adopting a bird is a long-term commitment. A parrot is one species of birds who can be very well-trained.The parrot is one of the best pets in the world. They are located worldwide, usually in tropical areas. Parrots are wild animals. most pet parrots are only one generation removed from the wild. Parrots are impressive, beautiful, colorful, entertaining pets to have. Parrots are high maintenance companions, and they don’t care about your money. Parrots are popular pets and there is a large and thriving trade in smuggling the animals out of various countries, with many dying in transit.
Most parrots are tropical, with only a few species reaching northern and southern temperate areas. Some New World parrots are predominantly blue or yellow, and many have touches of red in the plumage as well. Pet parrots are loved, cuddled with and are subjected to varieties of toys and environment to help them grow and socialize confidently. These parrots are raised in social environment, so they are well socialized, they will go to anyone without hesitation.
Quaker parrots are 10 to 12 inches in length. Colors of Quaker parrots are two color parrots and the name Myiopsitta Manchus or Quaker parrot was assigned because of color feature similar to monk’s frock. Because all Quaker parrots are so different we cannot establish the difference between male, female or younger ones. We have to keep in mind that Quaker parrots are South American parrots so they need lots of fruit and vegetables along with standard grainy food. Quaker parrots are the only parrots that don’t nest in the tree hollow but they build big community nests from grass and tree branches. Interesting facts about Quaker parrot, Quaker parrots are very active and always in moving.
Senegal Parrots are birds of open woodland and savanna. Hand reared Senegal Parrots are one of the most popular parrots to be kept as pets, and the most popular Poicephalus parrot. Senegal Parrots are relatively easy to breed in captivity and there is a small industry in breeding and hand rearing Senegal Parrots and other parrots for the pet trade. Outside the breeding season these parrots are generally seen in flocks, sometimes reaching two to three hundred birds.  
Amazon Parrots are green and short winged. The Amazon Parrots are very energetic, playful and social creatures that crave lot of interaction with its human owners. The most colorful parrots are the lories, in which reds and greens predominate, but blue, purple, brown, yellow, and black also appear. Virtually all parrots are hole-nesters, using holes in trees,termite mounds, rock cavities, or ground tunnels. 
Mealy parrots are found in Mexico and Central and South America, occupying a wide range from southern Mexico to northern Bolivia and southern Brazil. Mealy parrots are mainly green with a crown of blue and violet feathers on the head, as well as a powdery appearance given by the dull, bluish feathers on the head, neck, and shoulders. Mealy parrots are social animals, often seen flying in pairs or small flocks of up to 20. Mealy parrots are very active and are often seen interacting with other species of parrots, such as macaws (Ara). Mealy parrots are prey to various predators, such as hawks and monkeys. Although their importance to the environment has not been extensively researched, mealy parrots are speculated to play a role in seed dispersal as well as act as a pollinator of the flowers they feed on. Of special interest to the international live exotic bird trade, mealy parrots are most commonly taken into captivity and sold as pets. Mealy parrots are not currently identified as a species in crisis
The White Capped Pionus Parrots are not often owned because young birds have such dull plumage.
When White Capped Pionus Parrots are raised correctly, they are a delight to own as adults. Pionus Parrots are affectionate toward their owners and, although quiet, they can usually be taught to talk. Most White Capped Parrots are quite intelligent and can be taught a many tricks. Although the heads of White Capped Pionus Parrots are blue, they are topped with a white patch, hence the name White Capped. If the White Capped Pionus Parrots are fed on a pelleted diet, they should not be offered vitamin supplements. By the time they are eight weeks old, young White Capped Pionus Parrots are usually ready to leave the nest.
In the wild, Superb Parrots are almost always found in flocks, only sometimes in pairs. Superb Parrots are extremely hardy and will thrive on a good basic seed mix supplemented with fresh fruits and vegetables like apples and carrots, rose hips and green food. When forced to migrate due to harsh weather, Superb Parrots are good distance-fliers and call to each other constantly in a voice much like that of a Cockatiel. Relatively Easy Superb Parrots are extremely hardy and will thrive on a good basic seed mix supplemented with fresh fruits and vegetables like apples and carrots, rose hips and green food. If Superb Parrots are to be bred in captivity, they require a nesting box or hollow log of at least 20 centimeters in diameter. Beautiful and intelligent though the large parrots are, they certainly aren’t for everyone.
Jeffrey L. New.
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