Is dog dental hygiene as important as human dental hygiene?

Let’s start with you. What happens if you don’t brush your teeth? Plaque starts to build around the gum line and in between the grooves of your teeth and a funky smell begins to follow your words out of your mouth.

Brush at least twice a day with dentist-recommended toothpaste and we come close to eliminating most of the common human dental problems.

So, why don’t our dogs get the same consideration? We complain that they are the family member with the un-kissable breath but often do nothing to help them combat the problem.

Dog Dental Hygiene Preventive Care

As with all health and wellness related
issues, good dog teeth care begins with
solid preventive care:

“Daily brushing? My dog won’t let me hold her face still for 3 seconds to clean out her eyes, let alone for the amount of time it would take to brush her teeth!”

This was my reaction the first time I heard this advice. After much trial and error, this technique seems to be the most effective:

Now for the actual steps:

1. At first, only briefly hold and look into your dog’s mouth – but do it often.

      2.  Once comfortable with allowing you to look, start to massage the gums a little. Move in gentle circles around the outside of the   gums and teeth. Do this quickly at first,
and spend a little more time with each attempt.

       3.  Now it’s time to introduce a brush. Use the same technique, and add a dab of dog toothpaste.

       4. BE PATIENT – it takes some dogs over a month to get used to it. How long would it take YOU to get used to someone grabbing your face and putting something into your mouth?

Ultimately you want your dog to get excited when the tooth brush comes out. Believe it or not, this can eventually be fun for them! So remember:

• Be gentle!
• Go at your dog’s own pace.
• Reward your dogs with a treat, trip outside, game of fetch or whatever they like most.

Crate Training a Puppy or Dog with puppy package from pet lovers palace

What to do when Puppy is screaming and whining in the crate.
First make sure your puppy does not have to urinate or defecate and that she is not thirsty or excessively hungry. If in doubt, take him to his designated toilet area before you begin.

Make yourself comfortable because in the beginning this can be a time consuming process, but each repetition brings results faster and faster until the exercise no longer needs to be done. If done properly, it should take no longer than a week for your puppy to feel secure in his crate and no longer howl and whine.

This process will not work if you do not provide your puppy with regularly scheduled exercise and play. If your puppy has excessive, pent up energy because you haven’t provided an outlet for that energy, then this exercise will be futile.

Having previously performed the Chill exercise with your puppy will make this training process infinitely easier. See the video on how to teach your puppy to Chill.

The basic idea is to comfort and sooth your puppy into falling asleep and then once asleep, placing her back into her crate. Sometimes the puppy will stir a bit when you move her from your lap to the crate, but simply stroke and calm her inside the crate before shutting the door. Sometimes, just reaching through the crate with your fingers and gently stroking the puppy will be enough. If the whining continues immediately, then repeat the process and wait until the puppy is more soundly asleep before placing her back into the crate.

Repeat this process until you succeed or each subsequent training session will take longer and longer. I had to do this several times the first night and then once a night for a few nights. After that I only needed to do it for a few minutes before bedtime and occasionally if the puppy woke up in the middle of the night. Each night she felt more secure, she slept longer and longer until she would sleep the entire night through.

However I found that I had to repeat the training when I crated her during the day for naptime. But the process is exactly the same.

The Doggie Dooley Pet Waste Disposal System from pet lovers palace works like a miniature septic tank, utilizing natural bacteria and enzyme cultures to reduce dog waste to a ground absorbed liquid.

 Simply shovel stools into the system, occasionally add water and the Digester Powder. Neat, clean, and convenient. An environmentally friendly way to dispose of pet waste! Each unit comes with a starter 6 month supply of Digester Powder. The Digester Powder is a non-toxic, harmless mixture designed especially for pet waste. The systems are harmless to pets, lawns, and shrubs. The Doggie Dooley is an excellent way to dispose of pet waste safely and control odors. Works well in all soil conditions except in areas with hard, non-draining clay soil.

Crate Training

 The Humane Society of the United States and Pet Lovers Palace

“Private room with a view. Ideal for traveling dogs or for those who just want a secure, quiet place to hang out at home.”

That’s how your dog might describe his crate. It’s his own personal den where he can find comfort and solitude while you know he’s safe and secure—and not shredding your house while you’re out running errands.

Crating philosophy

Crate training uses a dog’s natural instincts as a den animal. A wild dog’s den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger, and raise a family. The crate becomes your dog’s den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm.

• The primary use for a crate is housetraining. Dogs don’t like to soil their dens.
• The crate can limit access to the rest of the house while he learns other rules, like not to chew on furniture.
• Crates are a safe way to transport your dog in the car.

Crating caution!

A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated.

• Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.
• Don’t leave your dog in the crate too long.  A dog that’s crated day and night doesn’t get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious. You may have to change your schedule, hire a pet sitter, or take your dog to a doggie daycare facility to reduce the amount of time he must spend in his crate every day.
• Puppies under six months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long.  The same goes for adult dogs that are being housetrained.  Physically, they can hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to.
• Crate your dog only until you can trust him not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place he goes voluntarily.

Selecting a crate

Several types of crates are available:

• Plastic (often called “flight kennels”)
• Fabric on a collapsible, rigid frame
• Collapsible, metal pens

Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores or pet supply catalogs.

Your dog’s crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can’t eliminate at one end and retreat to the other. Your local animal shelter may rent out crates.  By renting, you can trade up to the appropriate size for your puppy until he’s reached his adult size, when you can invest in a permanent crate.

The crate training process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training:

• The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.
• Training should take place in a series of small steps. Don’t go too fast.

Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at his leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away.  If yours isn’t one of them:

• Bring him over to the crate, and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
• Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay; don’t force him to enter.
• Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feed your dog his meals in the crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.

• If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.
• If he remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating.
• If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, don’t let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.

Step 3: Lengthen the crating periods

After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home.

• Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.
• Give him a command to enter, such as “kennel.” Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.
• After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door.
• Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let him out of the crate.
• Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight.
• Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave

After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house.

• Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate.
• Vary at what point in your “getting ready to leave” routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
• Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly.

When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.

Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.

Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so they don’t associate the crate with social isolation.

Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Potential problems

Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you’ve followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.

If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t give in; if you do, you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won’t solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

Things you need to know about kennel training

2 Select a permanent location in your home with enough space for the kennel and is in a room full of activity so your pet can enjoy his own “special” place while still being part of the family. Also, place an old towel or blanket with your scent on it inside for bedding. These steps will help your pet become comfortable with his new surroundings.

 5 This training may take a few hours or days depending on your pet’s breed and temperament. Once he feels secure in the kennel with the door closed, the pup will eventually sit quietly and sleep in his “new” home.

6 NEVER punish your dog by forcing him into his kennel or reprimanding him while he is in it. This will undermine your pets sense of security in his kennel.

7 Always take your pet outside to potty BEFORE placing him in the kennel.

PetSafe Fence Is Safe And Humane

The PetSafe fence is safe and humane for all dogs or cats that weigh over 9 pounds, though it is predominantly used for dogs. The PetSafe fence is one of the best containment fences you can get. The reality is that an invisible PetSafe fence is very humane.

There are many different types of PetSafe Fences to suit different dogs and different containment areas. Because of all these variations, you may wonder which one is the most suitable for what it is you want to do, well we will help you through the PetSafe fence maze in this article. You can get an indoor and outdoor PetSafe fence, and you can get an outdoor fence which is either wireless or uses a wire. Your first option must be the simplest, and that is to choose whether you want an indoor PetSafe fence or an outdoor. If you want an indoor fence then you go for a wireless fence, if you want an outdoor then there are a number of items to take into consideration. There are three outdoor PetSafe Fence products; stubborn dog, deluxe and the standard model. It is one of the most powerful fences on the market. You can contain an area up to ten acres with this fence, all you need to do is buy more wire to extend it as the basic product only covers up to a third of an acre. This PetSafe fence can contain an area the same size as the stubborn fence but much less than the 25 acres for the deluxe model, hence the containment area is only 10 acres. You need to be careful because not all wireless fence products are safe.

You can get an indoor and outdoor PetSafe fence, and you can get an outdoor fence which is either wireless or uses a wire. If you want an indoor fence then you go for a wireless fence, if you want an outdoor then there are a number of items to take into consideration. The PetSafe wireless fence covers an area in diameter up to 180 feet. If you want simplicity and very fast setup then go for the wireless fence, if you need to cover a very large area, and you want a specific shaped boundary then you need the underground fence. PetSafe Wireless FenceYou need to be careful because not all wireless fence products are safe. PetSafe and Innotek have both developed a wireless fence which can be used indoors or outdoors. A wireless fence will ensure your dog is not able to jump over your fence or to dig under it. If you have the problem of your dog escaping from your back yard, an alternative to a wireless fence is the normal 6ft high panel fence, how much does that cost. Training your pet dog to turn a blind eye to things happening outside the wireless fence is one the things that makes this training so special. The other option to a wireless fence is the underground dog fence.

PetSafe and Innotek have both developed a wireless fence which can be used indoors or outdoors. There are three outdoor PetSafe Fence products; stubborn dog, deluxe and the standard model. Sometimes, the PetSafe product needs troubleshooting to resolve occasional problems with the collar or transmitter. Replace the batteries in the PetSafe collar. Trim the fur around the pet’s neck to increase the effectiveness of the collar’s static shock if your pet does not respond to the PetSafe product. If you get a PetSafe invisible dog fence then you will also get a comprehensive set of instructions. Innotek only makes one system and it is a general purpose one, where as PetSafe manufactures 3 types for 3 different applications. When it comes to the back yard, PetSafe manufactures an outdoor wireless fence, which Innotek have yet to do. The reality is that an invisible PetSafe fence is very humane. If a dog does escape it runs the risk of being run over if it gets out on the road and I have heard some people who get into a lot of hot water because their dogs escape and chase other pets or farm animals. When you study how a wireless or underground PetSafe fence works, you will understand how humane they are.

There are many different types of PetSafe Fences to suit different dogs and different containment areas. It is one of the most powerful fences on the market. The PetSafe fence is one of the best containment fences you can get. They hear things like shock collars and electric shock fences, which sound very painful. The good news is that these invisible dog fences are a piece of cake to get up and running. PetSafe produces a wide range of fences to suit the many different types of dog’s and your requirements. There are different fences for different applications. If you are looking for a dog fence you will be pleased to know that the modern dog fences are very simple to install.

The boundary area can be extended by adding additional transmitters and placing them at a strategic distance apart. If you want simplicity and very fast setup then go for the wireless fence, if you need to cover a very large area, and you want a specific shaped boundary then you need the underground fence. It covers boundary flag awareness, distraction phase and unleashed supervision. The system works with three parts: the transmitter, boundary wire, and dog collar. The transmitter with a fence sends radio signals to the boundary wire. If the dog is too close to the boundary of the fence, the collar will emit a beep. If the dog ignores the beep and keeps going toward the boundary, it will receive a mild electronic correction. Some electronic dog fence units have several levels of correction so correction levels will intensify as the dog gets closer to the boundary. If the boundary wire breaks, an alarm on the transmitter will sound to let you know. Play with your dog well away from the boundary and just have a bit of fun with him.

When multiple dogs are using a fence from Petsafe, they all must wear collars designed for that system so every dog receives appropriate correction.

The PetSafe fence is one of the best containment fences you can get. The reality is that an invisible PetSafe fence is very humane.

Crate training by pet lovers palace.com.

The great thing about dogs, and the thing that can make house training much

easier, is that dogs are instinctively very clean animals.  Setting up the

training area. The first step in house training your dog is to set up your

training area.  A small, confined space such as a bathroom, or part of a

kitchen or garage, works best as a training area.  This method of training

differs from crate training.  Crate training is great for puppies and small

dogs, but many larger dogs find a crate too confining.  It is important for

the owner to spend as much time in the training area with his or her dog as

possible.  It is important for the owner to play with the dog in the training

area, and to let the dog eat and sleep in that area.  The dog should be

provided with a special bed in the training area, anything from a store

bought bed to a large towel to a large box.    When you are not with your dog,

the dog should be confined to the training area.
Setting up the toilet area The second part of house training is to set up the

toilet area for the dog.  That is because if the dog is unable to hold it, he

or she may be forced to eliminate in the training area.  Continuing the house

training process After the dog is consistently eliminating in the toilet area

and not soiling the training area, it is time to extend that training area to

the rest of the home.  When you first expand the training area to a single

room, let the dog eat, play and sleep in that room, but only when supervised.

 When it is not possible to supervise the dog, place it back in the original

training area.  A set feeding schedule makes the house training process a lot

easier for both the owner and the dog.  One way to successfully speed up

house training is to praise and reward the dog each and every time it uses

the established toilet area.  Punishment will only confuse the dog and slow

down the house training process.  There are many ways to use  Dogs Training. 

Do you want to take your Puppies Training to the next level or what.  I’m not

advocating that anyone stop using Puppy Litter Training.  This is the way

that you can instantly learn more about Puppy Litter Training.  First, locate

a common source of Puppies Training that details House Train Puppy.  The

truth is that Dogs Potty Training is one of the oldest forms of that in

existence.  The quickest way to ensure continued house-training despite being

unsupervised is paper training.  If you don’t have the patience or prefer the

traditional approach, check your local yellow pages for dog training schools

available near you.  Remember that whatever kind of training you are doing,

praise and rewards will go a long way with a puppy or dog when learning

something new. 
Puppy crate training tip puppy tricks training online dog training course

aids dog hunting training dog hunting train wagon train dog treat litter

train a puppy.  Puppy leash training requires you to keep slack in the leash

and make sure the puppy is comfortable. 
Crate training is great for puppies and small dogs, but many larger dogs find

a crate too confining.  Crates work by adhering to the dog’s natural instinct

of not wanting to get soiled.  We looked at different types of training and

settled on the paper training method for us but you may find the crate

training of pad training methods more suitable for your circumstances.  The

alternative to paper training is crate training.  Since most puppies will not

soil the place where they have to sleep, they learn to hold their bowels

until they are let out of the crate/cage and put outside to go potty.  In

general, it’s accepted (by most dog trainers and vets) that crate training is

the fastest method of house training your dog; but it requires a considerable

investment of time and effort, which wasn’t an option for us. Paper training

and crate training aren’t the same thing. The difference between crate

training and house training.  The quickest and easiest way to housebreak most

puppies is the crate training approach.  Paper training is the best option

for you if you don’t have easy access to a garden or back yard- It’s not easy

for you to take your dog outside for any other reason If you have a full-time

job, or other time-consuming commitment which you can’t be around (meaning

that you’re not able to spend the large amounts of time supervising your dog

that crate training requires) So how to paper train your dog.  The crate

method involves the purchase of a crate / cage that is just large enough for

the puppy to lie down in.  here is a potted version Crate training is based

on a dog’s basic dislike of soiling where she sleeps, and involves

restricting the dog’s movement (by putting her in a crate, or small indoor

kennel) whenever she cannot be actively supervised (Be sure you have the

proper size crate). This type of house training requires that the puppy be

placed in the crate anytime the owner cannot directly watch the puppy. Keep

your puppy in a crate to keep him out of trouble when you can’t attentively

watch him.

Pet Flea Control is important if you do not want your pet itching and

scratching himself insane or for that matter, you yourself. If you own a pet

flea control is a must. Fleas and ticks can spread undesirable diseases such

as the dreaded Lyme disease and, as such pet flea control is something that

should be taken in all seriousness.

If your pet spends time both indoors and outdoors fleas are inevitable.

There are over 2400 different types of fleas and thankfully only a small

portion of that population is bothersome to you and your pet. Reason being

as there are numerous individuals that have reported their pets experiencing

adverse reactions. Don’t panic and poison yourself or your pet. Tapeworm

infections are usually diagnosed by finding the segments on the pet.

Prevention for both pets and humans Clean up all feces immediately in the

yard, home and on walks. Keeping your pets on Interceptor, a heart worm

preventative, is an excellent way of preventing heart worms and intestinal

parasites. First, take a fecal sample and your pet to a veterinary clinic

for a fecal exam. Your pet will need to be examined and weighed by the vet

to receive medication. We recommend this because your pet could also have

other types of worms or other organisms that you don’t see. Most intestinal

parasites can only be seen by a microscopic exam so your pet may have

parasites that you have never seen. Putting your pet on Interceptor will

prevent hookworms, whip worms and roundworms, as well as heart worms.

Flea control is a very important step in preventing tapeworms. Fleas and

ticks can spread undesirable diseases such as the dreaded Lyme disease and,

as such pet flea control is something that should be taken in all seriousness.

Fleas are the most important external parasite of dogs and cats world-wide.

The best type of flea control for your dog is not a flea collar – despite

all the marketing hype to the contrary. The best chemical flea control

method is the monthly application of the ointment – the most respected is the

Frontline ™ brand. Genuinely effective flea control includes ridding your

home of them as well. The more comprehensive approach you take towards flea

control the better – because fleas can live for months without food, and can

lay as many as 50 eggs a day. The chemicals recommended by veterinarians

most often for flea control are Advantage flea control, Revolution flea

prevention and Frontline flea control. Combined with the effective control

of adult fleas, this is the latest and most effective method for flea control

available. Controlling flea infestations will help eliminate tapeworms. pet

vaccines, pet dewormer, pet flea control, pet allergy remedies, pet heart

worm medicine, pet supplies and supplements such as pet vitamins all play an

important part in healthy pet regimens. Pet Flea Control is important if you

do not want your pet itching and scratching himself insane or for that matter,

you yourself. Many pets and humans are allergic to flea bites making pet

flea control an important step in a healthy pet regimen. Breaking the cycle

by killing adult fleas and preventing them from laying eggs is the foremost

reason for using pet flea control ointments and sprays on a regular basis. ?

Come summer and pollen, ragweed, grass allergens, dust mites, fleas can cause

allergies and are now common ailments that pets suffer from. With numerous

pet medicines for pet arthritis, pet dewormers such as pet heart worm

medicine, pet flea control, pet vaccines, pet allergy remedy on the market,

your pet need not suffer at all. In addition to just being a nuisance, fleas

are responsible for flea allergy dermatitis (FAD) in dogs and cats, which is

estimated to account for over 50% of all the dermatological cases reported to

veterinarians. Repeated flea bites cause discomfort to pets and humans.

Worms, especially Dipylidium caninum, also known as tapeworm in dogs and cats,

can be transmitted by fleas. Symptoms of fleas include scratching and

general discomfort of the animal. Checking for Fleas The best way to check

whether your animal has been in recent contact with fleas is to check for the

presence of flea feces. If you kill the fleas, your pets cannot get

tapeworms. When fleas bite, they consume a small amount of the host’s blood.

But a heavy infestation of fleas can remove enough blood to kill a small

puppy or kitten. The most common species of flea on both cats and dogs is

the Cat Flea. Cat Fleas will not live on humans, but they certainly will

bite us. When your pet gets fleas, eggs fall off the animal, wherever it

goes in your house. It takes between 5-14 days for fleas to develop inside

the cocoon, after which they are triggered to hatch in response to vibration

or the carbon dioxide exhaled by a passing host. Important Flea Facts For

one animal to catch fleas from another requires that the two animals are in

prolonged, stationary contact. Your pet is therefore very unlikely to catch

fleas from casual contact with an infested animal, like in a park. If you

find fleas on your pet, the most likely reason is that it has visited another

household with fleas, or a visiting cat or dog has brought them into your

home. If you have more than one cat or dog living in the same household,

they must all be treated against fleas at the same time. Just one untreated

pet can act as a ’safe haven’ for fleas, thereby triggering a new infestation,

or preventing you from clearing an existing one. Adult fleas spend most of

their time on an animal, but the eggs, larvae, and pupae are found in large

numbers in the environment in carpet, rugs, bedding, furniture, and grass.

To control the flea population, you need to remove fleas from the indoor

environment, the outdoor environment, and your pet. Cat fleas can infest

over 50 species of animals worldwide.

Almost every dog loves toys, and the selection of toys for dogs has grown by leaps and bounds in the last few years. Dog toys now rival cat toys in sheer variety and availability. Let’s take a look at some of the options:

• The Kong
  Indestructibly fun, as a throw toy, a treat toy, or just something the boys like to toss around by themselves. Best of all, dishwasher safe.   This is something that dogs with separation anxiety can be safely given in the crate while you’re out. Fill it with a frozen peanut butter concoction, and your dog will be happily occupied in your time of absence.
• The Buster Cube
   My favourite. If only because it actually occupies the furry family   members for longer than a half an hour. Ozzy will roll his around all day if I let him … as long as it has treats in it, that is.
• Squeaky Toys
  There is no limit to the variety of squeaky toys. Some are soft, some are hard rubber, soft plastic, or fuzzy, and in all shapes and sizes … but they all have one thing in common. An ear-splitting squeaker inside them.

  Dogs tend to have mixed reactions to squeaky toys. Some dogs, like their owners, wish death upon the squeak, and will proceed to disembowel all squeaky toys in their presence. This, while immensely satisfying, is not a safe exercise. If your dog is a squeak-assassin, please supervise him and remove the squeaker before he can choke on it.

  Some dogs  just love the squeaking toys. They will treat it like a baby, carrying it around gently in their mouths, cuddling it on the sofa, all the while giving it loving squeezes (squeak squeak squeak). They will not rip, gouge or tear, and the squeaker will last forever.

  Then, of course, there are the dogs who have absolutely no interest in squeaking toys at all, until they see their brother with it. I have two of those. It makes for interesting times.

• Floatables
  Perfect for retrievers at heart, floating retrievables are a must have if your dog likes water. Easily visible in dark water (unlike sticks),   floating rings, balls, and other such goodies make for great summer fun.

From Krista Mifflin

It may be difficult to believe that I would be this excited about a “dog bath” product, but this Booster Bath is one of the best products for my dog that I have bought all year. My Siberian husky, Graci, developed a skin allergy problem, and when the doctor told me I needed to bath her with a medicated shampoo two to three times a week, AND leave the shampoo on the dog for 10 minutes, I groaned. Bathing a toy yorkie in your kitchen sink is one thing, but bathing a large dog has challenges. It is hard to keep the dog quiet, bending over puts you in an uncomfortable position, and then having her stand for ten minutes for the shampoo to work, well, all you big dog lovers know what I am talking about!

I decided there had to be a better mouse-trap (dog bath) out there somewhere. My research brought me to the Booster Bath, invented and sold y “Paws for Thought” out of California. The unit is very easy to assemble, and every piece of it is high quality and made to last with UV Stabilized with stainless steel components. The unit is 50” long x 22” wide and weighs only 22 pounds. There is an open entry in the rear, there is a no-slip bottom cushioned mat so she doesn’t slip, and the tub is slanted ever so-slight toward the drain so that the water goes down and out the 5 foot discharge hose and she isn’t standing in water.

There is an adjustable leash restraint with a removable collar, so once the dog is in the tub , you hook them in and they stand and can’t go anywhere. Graci jumps in on her own, I hook her up and now we are ready for an easy and stress-free bath (for her and for me!)

The bath is a breeze, because the tub 33” tall, and I dont have to bend over at all. She is right at my level, so I can wash every part of her body with attention and ease. After I rinse her off, the towel dry is equally a breeze. Then I unhook her, and she turns around and jumps out. I think this Booster Bath would be perfect to bath your “trail riding” dogs when you get back from a long ride. The ease of this bath also encourages you to give the dog flea baths and other “coast enhancing” baths.

The Booster Bath sells for $179.00, you can find out more and order at their website www.petloverspalace.com.