Almost every dog loves toys, and the selection of toys for dogs has grown by leaps and bounds in the last few years. Dog toys now rival cat toys in sheer variety and availability. Let’s take a look at some of the options:

• The Kong
  Indestructibly fun, as a throw toy, a treat toy, or just something the boys like to toss around by themselves. Best of all, dishwasher safe.   This is something that dogs with separation anxiety can be safely given in the crate while you’re out. Fill it with a frozen peanut butter concoction, and your dog will be happily occupied in your time of absence.
• The Buster Cube
   My favourite. If only because it actually occupies the furry family   members for longer than a half an hour. Ozzy will roll his around all day if I let him … as long as it has treats in it, that is.
• Squeaky Toys
  There is no limit to the variety of squeaky toys. Some are soft, some are hard rubber, soft plastic, or fuzzy, and in all shapes and sizes … but they all have one thing in common. An ear-splitting squeaker inside them.

  Dogs tend to have mixed reactions to squeaky toys. Some dogs, like their owners, wish death upon the squeak, and will proceed to disembowel all squeaky toys in their presence. This, while immensely satisfying, is not a safe exercise. If your dog is a squeak-assassin, please supervise him and remove the squeaker before he can choke on it.

  Some dogs  just love the squeaking toys. They will treat it like a baby, carrying it around gently in their mouths, cuddling it on the sofa, all the while giving it loving squeezes (squeak squeak squeak). They will not rip, gouge or tear, and the squeaker will last forever.

  Then, of course, there are the dogs who have absolutely no interest in squeaking toys at all, until they see their brother with it. I have two of those. It makes for interesting times.

• Floatables
  Perfect for retrievers at heart, floating retrievables are a must have if your dog likes water. Easily visible in dark water (unlike sticks),   floating rings, balls, and other such goodies make for great summer fun.

From Krista Mifflin

Everything You Need to Know

 About Catnip!

Catnip is a perennial herb. It is a member of the Mint family Labiatae, it is also a distant relation of marijuana.   It is well known   for it’s ability to get cat’s high. It is native to Europe & Asia, however has become naturalised in America & Canada after being introduced. There are approximately 250 species of Catnip, and this figure doesn’t include hybrid species. Some of the more readily available ones are:

Common Catnip (Nepeta cataria) 
White flowers, grows up to 3 feet. This is the variety most cats enjoy.

Camphor Catnip (Nepeta camphorata
White flowers with purple dots, grows up to 18 inches. Camphor scent.

Greek Catnip (Nepeta parnassica)
White, pale pink flowers, grows up to 18 inches.

Lemon Catnip (Nepeta cataria citriodora)
White flowers, spotted with purple, grows up to 3 feet. The leaves have a lemony scent.

Catmint (Nepeta mussinii)
Purple flowers. This plant has smallish, grey/green leaves. It grows up to 15 inches high.

The name Nepeta is believed to have come from the town of Nepete in Italy. Cataria is thought to have come from the Latin word for cat.

Catnip is also known by the following names:   Cataria,  Catmint, Catnep, Catrup, Cat’s Heal All,  Cat’s-play, Cat’s Wort, Catswort, Catwort, Chi Hsueh Tsao, Field Balm, Garden Nep, Herba Cataria, Herba Catti, Nebada, Nep.

The active ingredient which causes this is an essential oil called nepetalactone, which can be found in the leaves & stem of the plant. Other constituents include Acetic Acid,  Alpha & beta-nepetalactone, Citral,  Nepetalactone,  Geraniol, Dipentene, Citronellol, Nerol, Butyric Acid, Valeric Acid and Tannins.

When a cat encounters catnip, it usually sniffs it, rubs against it, licks it & finally eats it. It’s actually the sniffing that gets produces the high, it’s believed that cats eat catnip to bruise the catnip & therefore release more of the nepetalactone. The high produced will usually last between five & ten minutes.

One interesting fact is that when sniffed, catnip will stimulate kitty, however when eaten it will act as a sedative.

Around 50% of cats are affected by catnip, and those who are, are affected to differing degrees. Kittens younger than 8 weeks old aren’t  able to enjoy it’s effects. In fact, they show an aversion to it.  The response to catnip appears to be inherited as an autosomal gene. It’s not just domesticated cats who enjoy the effects of catnip, many lot of wild species also enjoy it.  Cats can smell 1 part in a billion  in the air. Males & females, entire or desexed, there appears to be no one group who is more readily affected by catnip than another.

Nepetalactone causes a hallucinogenic effect. Some say the effects are similar to LSD, others say similar to marijuana. Because cats roll on the floor, which mimics a female in estrus, it has been suggested that catnip acts as an aphrodisiac, but this is unlikely as males react in just the same way. What is likely is the cat is reacting to similar “feel good” pheromones released during  sexual courtship/activity. However, non sexual behaviour including playing, chasing & hunting can also be observed.  The response to catnip is via the olfactory system. Even cats who can’t smell will can still respond to catnip.

The effects of catnip seem to change from cat to cat. I have one cat who drools & rolls on the floor, I have another one who becomes very hyperactive, a third becomes aggressive, and picks fights with the other cats when he’s had catnip.

Catnip is not harmful to your cat. They won’t overdose on it.  Most cats know when they’ve had enough & will refuse any further offers.

Interestingly, researchers say that nepetalactone is about ten times more effective at repelling mosquitos than DEET, which is the active ingredient in most insect repellents. It was also discovered that catnip repels cockroaches too!* Plants aren’t alone in containing nepetalactone, some insects & ants also contain it. It’s been speculated that this protects them from insects.

Rats & mice are also believed to have a strong dislike of catnip & will avoid places where it grows.

If you set it, the cats will eat it. If you sow it, the cats don’t know it.
Philip Miller, The Gardener’s Dictionary

This saying came about because fresh catnip is supposedly more attractive to cats when it is bruised & transplanting catnip bruises the leaves. I don’t know how much truth there is to that, certainly my cats will have a nibble on the catnip I keep in their enclosure, which hasn’t been bruised.

Catnip is usually fairly easy to grow, you should be able to  purchase the plant from your local garden centre. It likes light sandy soil, and grows best in full sun.

Most pet shops either sell catnip toys, or tried catnip. When storing catnip, put it in an air tight container, in the fridge or freezer.

To dry fresh catnip, hang upside down in a dry, ventilated area, away from the sun.

Human uses:

Catnip tends to have a sedative effect on humans. It is most often drunk as a tea.

It is also useful for settling an upset stomach. It has also been used to treat headaches, scarlet fever, coughing, insomnia & smallpox.

Catnip can also be used for cuts, studies show it has a natural healing quality. Crush fresh catnip leaves, damp them & apply to your cut. **

Some other medicinal uses for catnip are: Anaesthetic, antibiotic, anti rheumatic, antispasmodic, astringent, carminative, diuretic, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism, chills, cold in the joints, haemorrhoids, toothache.

It may be difficult to believe that I would be this excited about a “dog bath” product, but this Booster Bath is one of the best products for my dog that I have bought all year. My Siberian husky, Graci, developed a skin allergy problem, and when the doctor told me I needed to bath her with a medicated shampoo two to three times a week, AND leave the shampoo on the dog for 10 minutes, I groaned. Bathing a toy yorkie in your kitchen sink is one thing, but bathing a large dog has challenges. It is hard to keep the dog quiet, bending over puts you in an uncomfortable position, and then having her stand for ten minutes for the shampoo to work, well, all you big dog lovers know what I am talking about!

I decided there had to be a better mouse-trap (dog bath) out there somewhere. My research brought me to the Booster Bath, invented and sold y “Paws for Thought” out of California. The unit is very easy to assemble, and every piece of it is high quality and made to last with UV Stabilized with stainless steel components. The unit is 50” long x 22” wide and weighs only 22 pounds. There is an open entry in the rear, there is a no-slip bottom cushioned mat so she doesn’t slip, and the tub is slanted ever so-slight toward the drain so that the water goes down and out the 5 foot discharge hose and she isn’t standing in water.

There is an adjustable leash restraint with a removable collar, so once the dog is in the tub , you hook them in and they stand and can’t go anywhere. Graci jumps in on her own, I hook her up and now we are ready for an easy and stress-free bath (for her and for me!)

The bath is a breeze, because the tub 33” tall, and I dont have to bend over at all. She is right at my level, so I can wash every part of her body with attention and ease. After I rinse her off, the towel dry is equally a breeze. Then I unhook her, and she turns around and jumps out. I think this Booster Bath would be perfect to bath your “trail riding” dogs when you get back from a long ride. The ease of this bath also encourages you to give the dog flea baths and other “coast enhancing” baths.

The Booster Bath sells for $179.00, you can find out more and order at their website www.petloverspalace.com.

Keeping Your Cat Healthy and

 Happy Indoors: A CatWellness

 Primer

Catwellness.org features not-for-profit organizations that champion the cat. We are expanding our coverage with this article to highlight both good concepts and toys to keep cats healthy and happy indoors. – The Editor

The following information is courtesy of Dr. Tony Buffington, veterinarian and creator of the Indoor Cat Initiative, which provides the ways to enrich the lives of indoor cats. For more information please visit: http://www.vet.ohio-state.edu/indoorcat.htm.

Personal Space
Like all cat lovers know, cats are very independent animals. They enjoy    hiding under, on top, and/or inside of many locations in the home. They are very curious creatures. A great way to give your cat the space it needs is by getting him or her a perch. A perch will allow them to elevate themselves from the ground level and observe from above. They will feel safe and secure while enjoying their surroundings. Perches are available in a variety of shapes and sizes, and you can even attach them to a windowsill so your cat can get a better view of the outside.

A Bed
Cats are most vulnerable when they are sleeping, so it’s important to provide them with a quiet and secure resting place.   For those who prefer that their cat stay off beds and other furniture, providing your cat with a comfortable resting place in a quiet part of the house is the best alternative. This area, however, must be in a place where necessities like food, water, and litter box, are still accessible. Cat beds can be purchased, or a snug blanket or towel will work just fine. Remember, just like you, cats don’t like being disturbed while they sleep.

Scratching/Climbing Post
Cats scratch as a way to stretch their muscles, shed old cuticle, sharpen their claws, and leave scent marks. Providing your cat with something to scratch   will not only keep them happy, but it will save your furniture. When   figuring out where to place a scratching post it’s important to keep in mind where your cat typically likes to scratch. You can place the post near this area in order to keep your cat from scratching that particular object. Keep the scratching post in close proximity to daily necessities and try not to move the post. If you do move it, try to move it as gradually as possible. Lastly, trim the sharp tips of your cat’s nails or purchase nail caps to reduce damage from scratching.

Litter Box
Cats use elimination as a way to mark their territory. So, in order to keep   them from eliminating all over your house, it’s important to provide them   an attractive litter box. First, cats appreciate a clean litter box. So, if you do not regularly clean out their litter box, they will most likely find a cleaner spot which may end up being somewhere in your house. Second, cats prefer a large uncovered litter box. This gives them a large space to move around and stand up straight. Third, most cats prefer fine-grained, unscented litter. Most cats are turned off by a scented litter. Lastly, the litter box should be placed in a quiet, secure and accessible place. This ensures the cat privacy, and eliminates other animals or people sneaking up on it. The “golden rule” is one litter box per cat, plus one. So for those with multiple cats, and/or multiple levels in your house, it is important to have multiple boxes on each level.

Toys
Although indoor cats don’t have to hunt for their food, they still have the urge to pounce. Toys are extremely important to the health and happiness   of your cat. Something as simple as a ball to roll around or a stick with a    string and a toy attached can amuse an indoor cat for hours. Taking a more realistic approach, you can give your cat a fake mouse that moves or makes noise.

It isn’t difficult to keep you indoor cat healthy and happy. All it takes is providing your cat with privacy, a comfortable place to sleep, something to scratch, an appropriate litter box, and most importantly, toys! Keeping your cat happy and healthy will not only increase their happiness, but yours as well.

The PetSafe fence is safe and humane for all dogs or cats that weigh over 9

pounds, though it is predominantly used for dogs. The PetSafe fence is one of

the best containment fences you can get. The reality is that an invisible

PetSafe fence is very humane.

There are many different types of PetSafe Fences to suit different dogs and

different containment areas. Because of all these variations, you may wonder

which one is the most suitable for what it is you want to do, well we will

help you through the PetSafe fence maze in this article. You can get an

indoor and outdoor PetSafe fence, and you can get an outdoor fence which is

either wireless or uses a wire. Your first option must be the simplest, and

that is to choose whether you want an indoor PetSafe fence or an outdoor. If

you want an indoor fence then you go for a wireless fence, if you want an

outdoor then there are a number of items to take into consideration. There

are three outdoor PetSafe Fence products; stubborn dog, deluxe and the

standard model. It is one of the most powerful fences on the market. You can

contain an area up to ten acres with this fence, all you need to do is buy

more wire to extend it as the basic product only covers up to a third of an

acre. This PetSafe fence can contain an area the same size as the stubborn

fence but much less than the 25 acres for the deluxe model, hence the

containment area is only 10 acres. You need to be careful because not all

wireless fence products are safe.

You can get an indoor and outdoor PetSafe fence, and you can get an outdoor

fence which is either wireless or uses a wire. If you want an indoor fence

then you go for a wireless fence, if you want an outdoor then there are a

number of items to take into consideration. The PetSafe wireless fence covers

an area in diameter up to 180 feet. If you want simplicity and very fast

setup then go for the wireless fence, if you need to cover a very large area,

and you want a specific shaped boundary then you need the underground fence.

PetSafe Wireless Fence You need to be careful because not all wireless fence

products are safe. PetSafe and Innotek have both developed a wireless fence

which can be used indoors or outdoors. A wireless fence will ensure your dog

is not able to jump over your fence or to dig under it. If you have the

problem of your dog escaping from your back yard, an alternative to a

wireless fence is the normal 6ft high panel fence, how much does that cost.

Training your pet dog to turn a blind eye to things happening outside the

wireless fence is one the things that makes this training so special. The

other option to a wireless fence is the underground dog fence.

PetSafe and Innotek have both developed a wireless fence which can be used

indoors or outdoors. There are three outdoor PetSafe Fence products; stubborn

dog, deluxe and the standard model. Sometimes, the PetSafe product needs

troubleshooting to resolve occasional problems with the collar or transmitter.

 Replace the batteries in the PetSafe collar. Trim the fur around the pet’s

neck to increase the effectiveness of the collar’s static shock if your pet

does not respond to the PetSafe product. If you get a PetSafe invisible dog

fence then you will also get a comprehensive set of instructions. Innotek

only makes one system and it is a general purpose one, where as PetSafe

manufactures 3 types for 3 different applications. When it comes to the back

yard, PetSafe manufactures an outdoor wireless fence, which Innotek have yet

to do. The reality is that an invisible PetSafe fence is very humane. If a

dog does escape it runs the risk of being run over if it gets out on the road

and I have heard some people who get into a lot of hot water because their

dogs escape and chase other pets or farm animals. When you study how a

wireless or underground PetSafe fence works, you will understand how humane

they are.

There are many different types of PetSafe Fences to suit different dogs and

different containment areas. It is one of the most powerful fences on the

market. The PetSafe fence is one of the best containment fences you can get.

They hear things like shock collars and electric shock fences, which sound

very painful. The good news is that these invisible dog fences are a piece of

cake to get up and running. PetSafe produces a wide range of fences to suit

the many different types of dog’s and your requirements. There are different

fences for different applications. If you are looking for a dog fence you

will be pleased to know that the modern dog fences are very simple to install.

The boundary area can be extended by adding additional transmitters and

placing them at a strategic distance apart. If you want simplicity and very

fast setup then go for the wireless fence, if you need to cover a very large

area, and you want a specific shaped boundary then you need the underground

fence. It covers boundary flag awareness, distraction phase and unleashed

supervision. The system works with three parts: the transmitter, boundary

wire, and dog collar. The transmitter with a fence sends radio signals to the

boundary wire. If the dog is too close to the boundary of the fence, the

collar will emit a beep. If the dog ignores the beep and keeps going toward

the boundary, it will receive a mild electronic correction. Some electronic

dog fence units have several levels of correction so correction levels will

intensify as the dog gets closer to the boundary. If the boundary wire breaks,

 an alarm on the transmitter will sound to let you know. Play with your dog

well away from the boundary and just have a bit of fun with him.

When multiple dogs are using a fence from Petsafe, they all must wear collars

designed for that system so every dog receives appropriate correction.

The PetSafe fence is one of the best containment fences you can get.

Pet Lovers Palace

 Heated pet beds from Pet Lovers Palace. 

 A Heated Pet Bed They Will Love
Low-level therapeutic heat in the Dolce Vita™ heated pet bed provides warming comfort to help reduce sore joints and muscles, stimulate circulation, and improve the activity level of any pet. The patent-pending Flat Screen Heater delivers even heating throughout the bed pad and works with your pet’s body temperature to provide the ideal temperature recommended by veterinarians. A therapeutic foam mattress delivers total body comfort.
Low Maintenance
Messes are inevitable. We planned for them, giving the Dolce Vita Therabed a washable, removable microsuede cover that’s stain and water-resistant.
Recommended by Veterinarians
With these benefits, it’s no wonder veterinarians recommend the Dolce Vita Therabed™.
Safe for Your Pet
Some owners worry a heated pet bed might injure their pet. With the Dolce Vita Therabed you don’t have to fret. We designed this pet bed with your pet’s safety in mind. The Therabed uses a low-power heater, distributes heat evenly without hot spots, and features a slip-resistant bottom.
Your pet is safe in a Dolce Vita heated pet bed.
Comfortable
Even heating is just the beginning. The rectangular Therabed features the same orthopedic foam pad as the oval model.

Pet Lovers Palace Has

Pet Gear Portable Pet Cot – Raised Dog Bed Compact and portable cot is self-leveling on any type of surface. Provides a raised resting area to keep your pet away from bugs, dirt and the heat of the ground. Strong, durable mesh allows for airflow and water drainage. Features:Contemporary Portable Design, Fully Assembled Steel Frame600 Denier Nylon with Nylon Mesh Compact Fold for Portability and Storage. Pet Cot can be used by themselves or inside the matching deluxe Home ‘N Go Soft crates No matter if they’re young or old, one thing that every dog will have in common will be their love for such a comfy new place to rest, and that love will surely be passed to you as well. Beds help to protect your dog from cold floors and summertime heat while providing a soft spot for snoozing. A new, high quality dog bed will have your pooch happy as can be. Once dog beds are worn out they are no longer as comfortable for your favorite friend, and they dream of the day you’ll surprise them with a perfect replacement. Experience the excitement and joy a new raised dog bed will create in your home.

D.T. Systems Manual Bird Launcher for Quail and Pigeon Size Birds BL500

The Manual Natural Flush Bird Launcher for those who do not require a transmitter. The standard size fits birds such as quails and pigeons while the large size fits birds such as pheasants and ducks.

All Natural Flush Bird Launchers offer the Quiet Release system to keep from spooking your dog as well as high quality nets and springs for effective launching.

Manual Launcher Features

Loading and Unloading birds for training your pointing/flushing dog has been made simple with this revolutionary new “Natural Flush Bird Launcher” offered by D.T. Systems. Conventional launchers carry the risk of losing or injuring your bird because of the difficulty of loading your bird and locking down the launcher at the same time. D.T. Systems’ patent pending “easy-load” trap door allows you to load the bird after the launcher has been locked down virtually eliminating the risk of losing or injuring your bird!

D.T. Systems Remote Bird Launcher for Quail and Pigeon Size Birds BL509

The Remote Natural Flush Bird Launchers allow you to handle up to 16 self-programmable Bird Launchers from up to 700 yards away. A beeper attached to the Remote Launchers allows for quick and easy location with a touch of a button from your transmitter.

All Natural Flush Bird Launchers offer the Quiet Release system to keep from spooking your dog as well as high quality nets and springs for effective launching.

Remote Launcher Features

Loading and Unloading birds for training your pointing/flushing dog has been made simple with this revolutionary new “Natural Flush Bird Launcher” offered by D.T. Systems. Conventional launchers carry the risk of losing or injuring your bird because of the difficulty of loading your bird and locking down the launcher at the same time. D.T. Systems’ patent pending “easy-load” trap door allows you to load the bird after the launcher has been locked down virtually eliminating the risk of losing or injuring your bird!

D.T. Systems Remote Large Bird Launcher without Remote for Pheasant and Duck Size Birds BL705

The Remote Natural Flush Bird Launchers allow you to handle up to 16 self-programmable Bird Launchers from up to 700 yards away. A beeper attached to the Remote Launchers allows for quick and easy location with a touch of a button from your transmitter.

All Natural Flush Bird Launchers offer the Quiet Release system to keep from spooking your dog as well as high quality nets and springs for effective launching.

Remote Launcher Features

Loading and Unloading birds for training your pointing/flushing dog has been made simple with this revolutionary new “Natural Flush Bird Launcher” offered by D.T. Systems. Conventional launchers carry the risk of losing or injuring your bird because of the difficulty of loading your bird and locking down the launcher at the same time. D.T. Systems’ patent pending “easy-load” trap door allows you to load the bird after the launcher has been locked down virtually eliminating the risk of losing or injuring your bird!

Http://www.petloverspalace.com

With the Canine Cooler Thermo regulating Pet Bed from pet lovers palace, dogs can have ultimate comfort and the coolest, softest spot in the house year round. Dogs love the cushy, cool, and dry sensation Sooth Soft Comfort Technology generates. This fluid-cool, memory foam comfort bed soothes and conforms to each pet’s pressure points while cooling at room temperature. These special features make the Canine Cooler especially great for dogs with bad joints, bad hips, skin disorders and other similar ailments. Maintenance free, this bed is easily wiped clean and does not allow fleas or ticks to burrow and lay eggs. Available in three sizes: •Small: 18″ x 24″ •Medium: 24″ x 36″ •Large: 36″ x 48″ ——————————————————————————– How it Works Fill the Canine Cooler with water just once. The water is absorbed by a memory foam comfort – this gives the ability to act as a heat sink. The Canine Cooler actively absorbs body heat then dissipates it into the air so it doesn’t heat up. Dogs can lie on it for hours since it remains dry and continues to provide coolness. The Canine Cooler stays room temperature, generally about 68-78 degrees, even in the winter. Since a dog’s average body temperature is about 103 degrees, there’s at least 25-35 degrees of refreshing coolness. The cushioning support is incredibly comfortable for dogs. The Canine Cooler is completely non-toxic and safe.

Crate training dogs and puppies.

That’s how your dog might describe his crate. It’s his own personal den where he can find comfort and solitude while you know he’s safe and secure—and not shredding your house while you’re out running errands.

Crating philosophy

Crate training uses a dog’s natural instincts as a den animal. A wild dog’s den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger, and raise a family. The crate becomes your dog’s den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm.

• The primary use for a crate is housetraining. Dogs don’t like to soil their dens.
• The crate can limit access to the rest of the house while he learns other rules, like not to chew on furniture.
• Crates are a safe way to transport your dog in the car.

Crating caution!

A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated.

• Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.
• Don’t leave your dog in the crate too long.  A dog that’s crated day and night doesn’t get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious. You may have to change your schedule, hire a pet sitter, or take your dog to a doggie daycare facility to reduce the amount of time he must spend in his crate every day.
• Puppies under six months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long.  The same goes for adult dogs that are being housetrained.  Physically, they can hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to.
• Crate your dog only until you can trust him not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place he goes voluntarily.

Selecting a crate

Several types of crates are available:

• Plastic (often called “flight kennels”)
• Fabric on a collapsible, rigid frame
• Collapsible, metal pens

Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores or pet supply catalogs.

Your dog’s crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can’t eliminate at one end and retreat to the other. Your local animal shelter may rent out crates.  By renting, you can trade up to the appropriate size for your puppy until he’s reached his adult size, when you can invest in a permanent crate.

The crate training process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training:

• The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.
• Training should take place in a series of small steps. Don’t go too fast.

Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at his leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away.  If yours isn’t one of them:

• Bring him over to the crate, and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
• Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay; don’t force him to enter.
• Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feed your dog his meals in the crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.

• If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.
• If he remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating.
• If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, don’t let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.

Step 3: Lengthen the crating periods

After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home.

• Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.
• Give him a command to enter, such as “kennel.” Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.
• After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door.
• Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let him out of the crate.
• Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight.
• Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave

After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house.

• Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate.
• Vary at what point in your “getting ready to leave” routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
• Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly.

When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.

Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.

Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so they don’t associate the crate with social isolation.

Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Potential problems

Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you’ve followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.

If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t give in; if you do, you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won’t solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

Source : Humane Society of  United States